Sailing from Greece to Maiorca on Zayda

3 - 23 november 2012

 

Zayda is a Nicholson 42 ketch, built in England in 1975. Barry is slightly older, born in Australia - but he has lived 

in many places of the world. He bought her in Turkey, and together they are going all the way to Australia.

I shared with them a small part of this long journey, from Kalamata in Greece to Palma de Maiorca, Balearics, Spain.

 

The 5/11 we depart Kalamata, bound for Sicily. We expect to motor against light winds for 2/3 of the way. After a little 

scare early on (water in the bilge), everything is fine except for the uncomfortable motion, motoring in the waves. 

When the (good) wind comes, at night, we soon need to reduce sail. And we realise there are a few things that do not work 

the way we expect, in the deck hardware arrangement. It is going to be a learning process and an improvement process. 

We fight with the genoa furler line and the friction in its tortuous path; we fight with the genoa sheet when it wrestles

 open a snatch block; we fight with the steering wheel when the boat gets overpowered. But the wind abates a bit, the speed 

is good, the night goes by and the day after, 8/11 we arrive safely in Siracusa. This boat can sail, don't call her a motorsailer. 

 

The wind charts downloaded  from www.passageweather.com show that the south of Sicily is no-go for a few days.

We make a detour to the north through Messina strait, in the meantime buying bits of gear and fixing things on the way.

We stop in Riposto, where my friend Lorenzo comes to greet us and takes us to Catania for a dinner with his lovely family.

 

We career up the Messina straight, pushed by increasing wind and current, and then along the north coast with 2 reefs and

reduced genoa. We hear gale warnings on the VHF and decide to stop in Milazzo, a strange place with a very expensive marina.

 

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roughly 1080 miles in 3 big steps

plus some wandering

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meet Zayda
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Landscape decoration at Kalamata marina
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storing the bicycle in the aft. cabin
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the cockpit, looking aft.
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the driving seat

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Marina Grande, Siracusa. Waiting

half a day for diesel, then staging an

epic battle against a blocked toilet hose

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some vintage ropes
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and a really good looking new vang
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Marina Militare playing around
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masterpiece of turkish craftmanship
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...and turkish/german engineering?
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vintage fan
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Lavac vacuum toilet, designed 1963
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After Messina strait
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this is when the wheelhouse gets handy
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Milazzo, with a view on the oil refinery

 

12/11: we leave Milazzo, with the options of stopping in Palermo or going on to Sardinia. 

After a last check to the weather charts we decide to keep going. There is some sailing but mostly motoring, 

and during the night the alternator stops charging. A small petrol generator comes out of its locker and into action. 

The wind picks up as we approach Sardinia, making for an interesting entry to Villasimius marina (not marked on our 

electronic chart) in the dark - after another fight with the genoa furler and wrestling session with the whipping sheets.

There is not much in Villasimius, and the day after we move to Cagliari to have the alternator checked. Here we are 

welcomed by François, with whom I and Paola have cruised for 3 weeks last year. He is spending his second winter

at the family-run Marina del Sole, an interesting mix of local color and cosmopolitan globetrotters' community.

 

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heading toward Palermo
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night ambient light
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leaving Sicily behind
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some friends come to play
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the deck generator comes to the rescue
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heading to Villasimius marina...

missing from the electronic chart

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tidying up
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Cagliari, view from Marina del Sole
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François at the marina bar
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aperitivo with the "locals"
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accessing the alternator
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there it is! ...a loose wire terminal
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quite a difference from "the other" Wild Oats
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hand-built wind generator
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siesta time
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Antonello wants to show me his baby
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a 1/4 tonner he built in 1984, cold molded
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but then, sadly left to rot outside
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this boat never sailed
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17/11: we leave Cagliari in the afternoon, and sail on a broad

reach along the coast; during the night, in a lull, the mainsail

gybes and the boom snaps at the vang/preventer attachment.

We lash the boom on the wheelhouse and motor on. After 

two days between calms and light winds on the nose, the

wind turns to N and pushes us along under reduced genoa

and mizzen. We reach Maiorca at night and slowly approach

Palma under engine, to reach the port at dawn.   

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the broken boom
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car carrier "parked" in the middle of the sea
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a little friend comes looking for shelter
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and flies all the way to the forward cabin
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sailing, again
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now I'm glad we have a mizzen
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sunset
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...and then...
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sunrise
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approaching Palma
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Nana was our neighbor (and friendly rival)

at the Swan Cup, two years ago

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this boat has a strange rig!! Barry

met its german designer while in Turkey

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the washing machine!
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a lot better now, without that big sail bag
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live bait vending machine
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Philippe Starck's "A"
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shrink-wrapped megayachts under refit
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a walk around Palma's historic centre
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contemporary art
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art nouveau
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contemporary art museum
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the boom stitched, "stronger than new"
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goodbye to Capt. Barry and Zayda
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the ferry to Barcelona
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morning walk in the Barrio Gotico
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